Nigel Slater’s lamb steak and caper dressing recipe

The recipe

Slice 300g of new potatoes into coins. Warm 4 tbsp of oil in a frying pan then add the potatoes and cook for 12-15 minutes, over a moderate heat, till they are golden.

While the potatoes cook put 150ml of soured cream into a small bowl. Stir in 1 tbsp each of Dijon mustard and capers. Chop 1 tbsp of tarragon leaves, then add to the soured cream. Halve lengthways 6 small gherkins then stir into the dressing, together with a little salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate.

Remove the potatoes with a draining spoon and keep warm. Season a couple of lamb steaks, each about 180g in weight, then sauté them for 4-5 minutes on each side, until they are cooked as you like them. Remove the lamb and let it rest for a few minutes. Briefly return the potatoes back into the pan, tossing them in the meat juices.

Serve the lamb steaks with the sour cream dressing and the potatoes. Enough for 2.

The trick

The principle of resting meat between cooking and serving benefits small cuts like a lamb steak as much as large joints. In this case, a matter of just 7-10 minutes in a warm place will ensure juicier lamb.

The twist

Young, sweet carrots are good here. Slice them in half lengthways and use in place of the potatoes. I’d add chopped mint leaves, too, when the carrots are returned to the meat juices in the pan. This method also works with pork steaks and chicken breasts.